this page will outline some hair crimes I have committed and lessons I have learned the hard way - I sure wish somebody educated me but I learned “the hard way”, usually compromising my hair health.
Crime#1. Using high volume developers with bleach. High volumes are designed for high-lift dyes, not bleach. If you are using bleach, by the very definition you must use low volumes - 20 vol is max, 10 is ideal. Lightening at 30 volume fried my hair, made it extremely brittle and dry, and it wasn't right away either - it can take weeks, months, even a year, but it will happen. If your current bleach doesn't work with your low volume developer - it's not you, it's the bleach that's low quality. Dump it and replace with better bleach: Joico Vero Light paste and powder, Kaaral Sense, Indola Rapid Bleach, Salerm Decopate, Kapous Professional. These bleaches will have no trouble lifting you with 10 volume developer especially if your roots are 4-6 weeks old.
Crime#2.Going too long between bleachings. The safest window is 5-8 weeks. If you wait too long, it will be a lot tougher to lift your hair to desired level because the hair is too long now. This has something to do with heat from your scalp helping with the lifting process.
Crime#3.If you are currently high-lifting your hair, don't switch to bleach. And if you've been bleaching, don't switch to high-lift. These are two different animals, so pick your poison early on. Once your hair becomes a certain structure from your product, using a completely different product "restructures" it and damages it irreversibly. I have tried high lifting after a year of bleaching with horrible results, because I lost a whopping THREE INCHES in a matter of two weeks as a result of this experiment. Don't make my mistake.
Crime#4.Going blonde at home after years of black-box-dying. If you do it, go to the salon, and let the professional torture you in his chair for 18 hours. There's just too much conflicting and deceiving information all over internet - most notably you should NOT "remove previous dyes" by means of "OOPS"-type acid washes or bleach caps. The most you should do is oil masks which are healthy for your hair and WILL remove some of your pigment: acid and bleach-caps are REALLY BAD for your hair. You are literally pre-destroying your hair prior to bleaching it, why on earth would you do a double-whammy like that?. Regular, professional grade bleach alone will manage just fine at "removing your previous dyes". There are other misconceptions, the list is just too long. Unfortunately this was my first mistake when I first went blonde, and this is why my ends are still a bit reddish, I don't even dream of lightening these again. These dead bits have been through ENOUGH. Only scissors can save them now.
Crime#5.Failing at keratin treatments. If you are suffering from hair breakage, unable to grow your hair past certain length - you must do these. Unfortunately there was a time when I didn't even know about these treatments. And the first few weeks after the process, my hair tends to look amazing, so I wasn't unaware of the problem - keratin loss is a silent killer. Look at 2 products I recommend (but there maybe others I'm unaware of) on my "routine" page. While you might not notice ANYTHING magical happen, and your hair won't feel any different, the main magic will be that your hair will become STRONG AS HECK, and stop breaking.
Crime#6. Foiling, putting a cap on, or heating hair during the process will effectively kill your hair. During bleaching especially, you need reaction with oxygen, and without oxygen, your cuticle will simply "explode" too rapidly instead of opening up nice and easy. I know that you might have seen somebody foiling on YouTube and it looks cool. But really, leave foiling for the pros!!! Foiling is done for DIFFERENT reasons. Give your hair the gift of wonderful oxygen that it NEEDS and stop suffocating it.
More crimes might have been forgotten and will be exposed in the future. :)
Crime#1. Using high volume developers with bleach. High volumes are designed for high-lift dyes, not bleach. If you are using bleach, by the very definition you must use low volumes - 20 vol is max, 10 is ideal. Lightening at 30 volume fried my hair, made it extremely brittle and dry, and it wasn't right away either - it can take weeks, months, even a year, but it will happen. If your current bleach doesn't work with your low volume developer - it's not you, it's the bleach that's low quality. Dump it and replace with better bleach: Joico Vero Light paste and powder, Kaaral Sense, Indola Rapid Bleach, Salerm Decopate, Kapous Professional. These bleaches will have no trouble lifting you with 10 volume developer especially if your roots are 4-6 weeks old.
Crime#2.Going too long between bleachings. The safest window is 5-8 weeks. If you wait too long, it will be a lot tougher to lift your hair to desired level because the hair is too long now. This has something to do with heat from your scalp helping with the lifting process.
Crime#3.If you are currently high-lifting your hair, don't switch to bleach. And if you've been bleaching, don't switch to high-lift. These are two different animals, so pick your poison early on. Once your hair becomes a certain structure from your product, using a completely different product "restructures" it and damages it irreversibly. I have tried high lifting after a year of bleaching with horrible results, because I lost a whopping THREE INCHES in a matter of two weeks as a result of this experiment. Don't make my mistake.
Crime#4.Going blonde at home after years of black-box-dying. If you do it, go to the salon, and let the professional torture you in his chair for 18 hours. There's just too much conflicting and deceiving information all over internet - most notably you should NOT "remove previous dyes" by means of "OOPS"-type acid washes or bleach caps. The most you should do is oil masks which are healthy for your hair and WILL remove some of your pigment: acid and bleach-caps are REALLY BAD for your hair. You are literally pre-destroying your hair prior to bleaching it, why on earth would you do a double-whammy like that?. Regular, professional grade bleach alone will manage just fine at "removing your previous dyes". There are other misconceptions, the list is just too long. Unfortunately this was my first mistake when I first went blonde, and this is why my ends are still a bit reddish, I don't even dream of lightening these again. These dead bits have been through ENOUGH. Only scissors can save them now.
Crime#5.Failing at keratin treatments. If you are suffering from hair breakage, unable to grow your hair past certain length - you must do these. Unfortunately there was a time when I didn't even know about these treatments. And the first few weeks after the process, my hair tends to look amazing, so I wasn't unaware of the problem - keratin loss is a silent killer. Look at 2 products I recommend (but there maybe others I'm unaware of) on my "routine" page. While you might not notice ANYTHING magical happen, and your hair won't feel any different, the main magic will be that your hair will become STRONG AS HECK, and stop breaking.
Crime#6. Foiling, putting a cap on, or heating hair during the process will effectively kill your hair. During bleaching especially, you need reaction with oxygen, and without oxygen, your cuticle will simply "explode" too rapidly instead of opening up nice and easy. I know that you might have seen somebody foiling on YouTube and it looks cool. But really, leave foiling for the pros!!! Foiling is done for DIFFERENT reasons. Give your hair the gift of wonderful oxygen that it NEEDS and stop suffocating it.
More crimes might have been forgotten and will be exposed in the future. :)
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