This page is just going to outline my "current" routine for going blonde from level 5.
So without further ado, here it is:
THE ART OF TIMING. WHEN?.
I dye my hair every 5 weeks, usually during "the growing Moon" phase (I use an app on my phone to find out when, but the best times are said to be Growing Moon in Taurus, Leo and Virgo).
BEFORE THE PROCESS.
I apply a mixture of oils on my hair anywhere from overnight to several hours to prepare my hair.
THE PROCESS.
I use Joico Verolight PASTE. It is the gentlest and the most powerful of bleaches that I have ever tried (and I have tried many!) that allows me to lift from 5 to 10 in one easy-breezy step. I add Brazilian Bond Builder (Olaplex-like one step additive), Sweet-N-Low for scalp protection, and a few drops of oil for easier application. Application is painfully difficult with this paste, but I have never seen better results, so to me its 100% worth it.
RINSE OFF.
First I apply "sour mix" on the lengths of my hair using 25% lemon juice to 75% of any conditioner. This mix will protect my hair from bleach during rinse off phase. I use Lanza Deep Clarifying shampoo several times.
AFTER THE PROCESS/TONING.
At this stage I have two problems - irritated scalp and hair that needs toning! So I mix a bit of Chamomile and Mint tea with conditioner/mask, and add a few drops of Fanola anti yellow shampoo. I keep the mixture on for 20 minutes and rinse off. Voila! Perfectly toned hair and non-itchy scalp.
AFTERCARE.
Next week I use Schartzkopf Keratin Treatment mask (in black jar) for at least 4 hrs under the cap. (It became recently discontinued so if you can't find it anymore, I found a valid replacement: Paul Mitchel Awapuhi 2 step keratin treatment). This product is HOLY GRAIL that stops breakage in its tracks.
Keratin is something that hair becomes depleted of during the process of bleaching, and it can become weak if you don't replenish it at least once a month or more.
MAINTENANCE.
Now, since we've addressed 2 problems: pigment (to combat brassiness via purple shampoo) and keratin replenishment (to combat weakness/breakage), we have one more problem - moisture. Your hair will be craving moisture like a dying man in the desert. I solve this problem by weekly hair masks, my most recent discovery is HYDRA by Kaaral, but you can use any mask that is professional grade/and agrees with unique structure of your hair. If however it doesn't give it the slip, the shine, the manageability that a good mask has to provide - move on! I constantly try new masks :).
HAIR WASH.
I am a huge believer in Co Washing. If you haven't give it a try yet, drop everything you're doing and go ahead, DO. I'll wait. Right now I alternate with conditioner-based washing and using a mix of egg yolk+rosemary oil+yogurt (this promotes hair growth). My hair is very clean and never oily. The egg-mix is not bad smelling, in fact I was amazed that this mix actually was able to clean my hair - it cleans BETTER than conditioner washing, apparently due to lecitine in egg that is a natural cleanser. I dumped every single shampoo I had (and by dumped I mean donated to my family).
BRAIDING.
At night, I braid my hair before going to bed. I have noticed that every single friend with long hair does so to avoid their hair tangling at night, and its a great trick. Especially since I no longer brush my hair: brushing was only pulling out my hair, and yes, maybe my hair is looking a bit lumpy sometimes but it never looks untidy.
I have been brush-free for 3 months and I'm so happy that I don't have to remove clumps of hair out of it every week. It was pretty upsetting and nerve wracking...besides, hair braiding trick really works.
Once my hair grows out I might go back to my hair-brushing ways, I used to be IN LOVE with my round boar bristle brush, and once its LONG AND LUSH I would love to give it a nightly brushing before braiding.
Its just that its so thin and short and damaged right now, that I have to consider my options :)
So without further ado, here it is:
THE ART OF TIMING. WHEN?.
I dye my hair every 5 weeks, usually during "the growing Moon" phase (I use an app on my phone to find out when, but the best times are said to be Growing Moon in Taurus, Leo and Virgo).
BEFORE THE PROCESS.
I apply a mixture of oils on my hair anywhere from overnight to several hours to prepare my hair.
THE PROCESS.
I use Joico Verolight PASTE. It is the gentlest and the most powerful of bleaches that I have ever tried (and I have tried many!) that allows me to lift from 5 to 10 in one easy-breezy step. I add Brazilian Bond Builder (Olaplex-like one step additive), Sweet-N-Low for scalp protection, and a few drops of oil for easier application. Application is painfully difficult with this paste, but I have never seen better results, so to me its 100% worth it.
RINSE OFF.
First I apply "sour mix" on the lengths of my hair using 25% lemon juice to 75% of any conditioner. This mix will protect my hair from bleach during rinse off phase. I use Lanza Deep Clarifying shampoo several times.
AFTER THE PROCESS/TONING.
At this stage I have two problems - irritated scalp and hair that needs toning! So I mix a bit of Chamomile and Mint tea with conditioner/mask, and add a few drops of Fanola anti yellow shampoo. I keep the mixture on for 20 minutes and rinse off. Voila! Perfectly toned hair and non-itchy scalp.
AFTERCARE.
Next week I use Schartzkopf Keratin Treatment mask (in black jar) for at least 4 hrs under the cap. (It became recently discontinued so if you can't find it anymore, I found a valid replacement: Paul Mitchel Awapuhi 2 step keratin treatment). This product is HOLY GRAIL that stops breakage in its tracks.
Keratin is something that hair becomes depleted of during the process of bleaching, and it can become weak if you don't replenish it at least once a month or more.
MAINTENANCE.
Now, since we've addressed 2 problems: pigment (to combat brassiness via purple shampoo) and keratin replenishment (to combat weakness/breakage), we have one more problem - moisture. Your hair will be craving moisture like a dying man in the desert. I solve this problem by weekly hair masks, my most recent discovery is HYDRA by Kaaral, but you can use any mask that is professional grade/and agrees with unique structure of your hair. If however it doesn't give it the slip, the shine, the manageability that a good mask has to provide - move on! I constantly try new masks :).
HAIR WASH.
I am a huge believer in Co Washing. If you haven't give it a try yet, drop everything you're doing and go ahead, DO. I'll wait. Right now I alternate with conditioner-based washing and using a mix of egg yolk+rosemary oil+yogurt (this promotes hair growth). My hair is very clean and never oily. The egg-mix is not bad smelling, in fact I was amazed that this mix actually was able to clean my hair - it cleans BETTER than conditioner washing, apparently due to lecitine in egg that is a natural cleanser. I dumped every single shampoo I had (and by dumped I mean donated to my family).
BRAIDING.
At night, I braid my hair before going to bed. I have noticed that every single friend with long hair does so to avoid their hair tangling at night, and its a great trick. Especially since I no longer brush my hair: brushing was only pulling out my hair, and yes, maybe my hair is looking a bit lumpy sometimes but it never looks untidy.
I have been brush-free for 3 months and I'm so happy that I don't have to remove clumps of hair out of it every week. It was pretty upsetting and nerve wracking...besides, hair braiding trick really works.
Once my hair grows out I might go back to my hair-brushing ways, I used to be IN LOVE with my round boar bristle brush, and once its LONG AND LUSH I would love to give it a nightly brushing before braiding.
Its just that its so thin and short and damaged right now, that I have to consider my options :)
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